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But now I was in a line for something unexpected: to board a Russian warship docked in Havana’s harbor.

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Cuba’s Ministry of Defense said that none of the ships were carrying nuclear weapons and that they did not represent “a threat to the region,” clearly meaning the US, Cuba’s neighbor 90 miles to the north.

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But for many Cubans, the visit of the largest convoy of ships in years from their old Cold War ally seemed like a return to the past, particularly as Moscow and Washington increasingly spar over the war in Ukraine.

“I never thought I would see a Russian submarine so up close,” said a Cuban man next to me as we waited in line in view of the four vessels. We were standing outside the port terminal in Havana which, just years earlier, had been full of US cruise ships, until then-President Donald Trump banned their visits to the island in 2019.

Even though a line had formed, it was not clear if any of us waiting there were going to get aboard. An hour passed in the broiling Cuban sun.

“We are roasting out here,” a woman carrying a small baby next to me said. Cubans are champion line-waiters and I worried that I would have nothing to show for my interlude outside the port other than a worsening sunburn.

Finally, a Cuban Navy official in a sparkling white uniform came out to speak to us, resting his hand on my shoulder.

“You can go aboard but need to leave any sharp objects like knives, scissors or hair clippers behind,” he said.

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I handed mycarné,or ID card, that lists my birthplace in the US to one of the officers who appeared too young to shave. He looked at mycarnéand turned to his older colleague for advice.

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Inside the port, past officials manning a metal detector, Russian sailors in dark blue unforms waited to take a group of about 20 of us aboard the Gorshkov.

In front of the ship, the sailors had posted a sign in English that declared the Gorshkov’s “main purpose” was “combat operations against enemy surface ships and submarines.”

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Just off the bow we could see an unobstructed view of the Kazan, the 430-foot long submarine that stretched out into the harbor.

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I disembarked the Russian warship in Havana feeling that the Cold War did not seem like such a distant memory, when I saw an alert flash across my phone.

It was an announcement that the Pentagon had just dispatched its own nuclear powered attack submarine to the other side of the island: the US Navy Base in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba, slightly more than 500 miles away from the where the Russian ships are docked.

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