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“It is the only living mansion on the historic street of Chandni Chowk,” says Pershad, a descendant of Chunna Mal, a moneylender and businessman who built the home way back, according to an inscribed golden slab inside the building’s hallway, in 1864.

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“The family is planning to sell, but I am against it,” he says. “I have been trying to bring them on the same table.” Pershad says he’s hoping to ensure one of the only privately owned mansions in the area is not converted into a hotel.

Back in the days of Mughal empire, which was founded in the 16th century and grew to control much of the Indian subcontinent before dwindling and being dissolved in 1857, India’s cultural and architectural heritage gained numerous iconic structures.

In Delhi, these include the Humayun’s Tomb, Jama Masjid [mosque] and the Old Fort. The neighboring city of Agra got theTaj Mahal. Designated one of the seven wonders of the world, it draws in thousands of visitors each day.

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However, mansions like the one belonging to Chunna Mal’s family were untouched. “Chunna Mal was pro-British. We enjoyed a lot of privileges because of it,” Pershad explains.

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Bustling with businessmen, cycle rickshaws, and shoppers who’ve come in to buy clothes and jewelry or eat the mouth-watering food, it draws In thousands of tourists and visitors each day

For Rameen Khan, the founder of the companyCity Taleswhich organizes heritage walks and tours in and outside Delhi, this road’s importance extends beyond its material offerings.

“In its nooks and corners this street has preserved over three and a half centuries of India’s history. It hides in plain sight, unnoticed and unappreciated, but a testament to the unfolding of India’s past,” he says.

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“Since it was the grandest part of the stretch, it is fitting that the entire stretch is named after it,” Khan adds.

It isn’t only multiple eras of history that intertwine here in this sliver of Old Delhi. Several houses of worship co-exist in Chandni Chowk: a Jain temple, a Hindu temple, a mosque, a Sikh shrine, and a Baptist church.

“This shows the ability of India to be able to peacefully cohabit as a secular country, despite its many challenges,” Khan says.

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Originally built in the 1600s, the temple was renovated with red sandstone in 1878, giving it the nickname the Red Temple.

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On the other side of the road is the Central Baptist Church, which dates to the British colonial era. According to Khan, the original Christian church was destroyed in the revolt of 1857, then later rebuilt. But travelers who know where to look can head inside, where they’ll find inscriptions of prayers and commandments inscribed in Urdu on golden-colored slabs.

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For Khan these buildings are a reflection of the different eras that the neighborhood has witnessed.

Locals say Chandni Chowk’s popularity increased recently when Delhi’s local government unveiled a new look, banning all traffic apart from rickshaws. New red sandstone walkways were laid down to create a pedestrian zone and more trees planted.

Dilip Saxena, a local retiree who has spent his whole life living nearby, says that beyond the main thoroughfare, the neighborhood is blighted by dirt, monsoon floods and building fires. He says its status as a residential area is being eroded.

“When I was growing up here there were 13 homes in the area around my home. Now there are only two. People have sold off their property as commercial establishments and moved out,” he said.

“With the mall coming there is a concern that the old-world charm of this area may be forgotten or altered over time. As generations keep coming, lesser and lesser people will know about this history and that is a concern,” says Saxena.

For Ajay Pershad too, this development is for the visitors, not for those who live here. “You can ban vehicles, but what do we residents do during medical emergencies?”

Despite that, Pershad is certain he will not depart. “This is the rich history of my family right here. I cannot even think of leaving.”

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