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Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery is in the Nihombashi neighborhood in eastern Tokyo. During the Edo period (1603 - 1868), this area flourished with activity due to boats carrying shipments of sake.

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Before venturing into the bar to try a glass, here’s what to know about this historic, controversial tipple.

Often considered to be the ancestor of today’s sake; it is no coincidence that the characters comprising the word, 濁酒, signify “cloudy,” or unrefined, liquor. To distinguish this type of turbid Japanese alcohol from that of the ubiquitous and transparent sake, there are two distinct if slightly misleading categories:seishu(清酒), or clear sake, and doburoku (濁酒).

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However, when making doburoku, they are all simultaneously placed in with the yeast starter, causing the resulting mixture to be comparatively overflowing with sugars. The sugars then start to break down the yeast, which halts fermentation much earlier on. Ultimately, what remains is a sweeter liquid with a much lower alcohol content, formally known as doburoku.

For nearly as long as rice has been cultivated in Japan, doburoku has existed. It was the brew of choice for farmers and Shinto priests alike. With a relatively simple recipe – i.e. throwing everything into the proverbial crucible at once – doburoku was a common sight throughout the countryside.

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Yet, as a result of the end of the Edo period (1603 CE - 1868 CE), all feudal lords were forced to abandon their regional domains in the name of the centralized Meiji government, based out of the new capital Tokyo. Borne out of the 180-degree shift in governance came highly structured institutions, including an empowered and regimented tax collecting body.

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Utsunomiya says that 1880 is when the quantity of homebrewed liquor started to be restricted, while in 1882 a licensing system was introduced. Then, in 1896, a liquor tax was imposed on all homebrewing, culminating in the complete prohibition of homebrewed liquors in 1899.

In essence, all doburoku made from then on came to be calledmitsuzoushu(密造酒), “secretly produced alcohol,” or moonshine.

However, even during that prohibition, doburoku could still be found in Japan. Tellingly, Shinto shrines were able to carry on using the beverage for rituals. After World War II, due to a shortage of sake, the Korean beveragemakgeolli, an unfiltered cousin of doburoku made of rice, wheat, malt and water, was a popular alternative.

In spite of the fact that homebrewing is still illegal, the Japanese government allowed for inns and restaurants inspecial deregulation zones, primarily in regions where economic growth had stagnated, to commercially sell doburoku in 2003.

Opened in 2015, Tokyo’s Sake Hotaru was the first legal spot to offer doburoku in Japan’s capital. But bar owners only started selling it to the public in late 2016.

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“We often receive questions about the difference between sake and doburoku, how many days it takes to make it, and how it’s produced,” he says of the bar patrons.

In addition to doburoku, the brewery’s own sake and beer labels are available. However, keep in mind that if you want to order anything, the brewery does not accept cash.

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However, owner Shinobu Kato says “the context doesn’t exist here,” as Americans are less likely to have heard of doboruku.

“Apart from a few sake shops that are very familiar with and interested in our doburoku,” Kato says, “most of the sales are at the taproom for both bottle to go and drink by the glass.”

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