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Legend has it, it was the year 705 when the oldest son of Fujiwara no Kamatari, the most powerful aristocratic family during that period, was wandering from the capital when he discovered hot springs in the area.
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Getting to the ryokan is not simple. First, travelers pass through the bustling chaos of Shizuoka station in the prefecture of the same name, then board the bullet train heading eastward.
From there, the world slowly slips away. Stations get increasingly smaller as the surrounding area gets more rural. At some stations, there’s not even a ticket booth in sight.
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In Minobu, there’s no convenience store or McDonald’s. Instead, the small streets are home to local businesses that have been open for generations.
From there, it’s an hour-long drive down a winding road, pushing deeper and deeper into the mountains, until finally the ryokan comes into view.
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“From the baths to the rooms, I can feel the presence of history here,” says Michiyo Hattori, a guest who was at the ryokan to celebrate her 70th birthday.
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For dinner, guests are assigned a private room at a reserved time. A five-course meal is served with locally made wine.
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“The past president told me to become the ryokan master and not be distracted,” says Kawano. “When you begin to see success, you start to stick your head in other ventures, becoming vulnerable to failure.”
For more than a century, the ryokan was owned by two families, but when it came to deciding who the 53rd president would be, the prior president had a problem – there were no more relatives or descendants who could take over for the next generation.
Kawano first joined the ryokan in 1984 when he was 25 years old and held a variety of jobs – including fixing walls and building computers – before going into management.
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“I was called to the predecessor’s office one day and he told me I was taking over the business,” said Kawano. “I felt such immense pressure to take over such a historic place. It took me six months to accept the offer.
Japan’spopulation continues to decline, breaking records each year. Meanwhile, younger generations have moved on to major cities like Tokyo for better opportunities, leaving villages with mostly elderly residents.
Kawano couldn’t legally inherit the ryokan because he wasn’t a blood relative. To solve this, he took over the original shares of the business and created the Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan Limited company.
Other challenges include keeping the ryokan’s traditions alive while also making adjustments for a new wave of travelers, many of whom are from outside of Japan.
Kawano says that many ryokans adjusted to modern times by allowing shoes inside the facility and adding beds to the rooms, but that was an adjustment he wasn’t willing to make.
Instead, he had futons custom-made in larger sizes to accommodate the new clientele of Western guests, who tend to be taller than their Japanese customers.
“We plan to keep the concept of taking your shoes off at the entrance as well,” Kawano says. “We want to make sure that our guests experience the authenticity of tradition we have protected over the years.
“I feel that it is my duty to make this ryokan survive. When I pass on the ryokan to the 54th president, I have fulfilled my obligation.”
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