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From the six-layered Dobos cake, created by famed baker Dobos C. József, to the Esterházy torte, comprised of layers of meringue and chocolate butter cream, nowhere does cakes quite like the Central European country.
In fact, confectionery creation is so ingrained in local culture, the National Confederate of Hungarian Confectioner sponsors an annual contest to choose “Hungary’s Birthday Cake,” by invitation of the government.
Open to the finest confectioners in the country, the competition was first held in 2007 to celebrate St. Stephen’s Day on August 20, a national holiday honoring the first King of Hungary.
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“I don’t enjoy competition,” he tells 【 - Free Access to Community 】. “I thought, fine, I will compete this year and then they’ll all leave me alone.”
“I got into the finals that first time and thought, if I got into the finals then let’s see what happens next year,” he says. “I got the taste and I had to win it.”
In the following years, he entered various cakes into the annual competition using non-traditional ingredients such as violets and marshmallow and coffee, malt and milk chocolate.
But while each of his entries made it to the finals, Tóth struggled to produce a winning creation – until now.
“In all the previous years I entered, I created modern cakes,” he explains. “But this cake looks like something from 20 or 30 years ago.
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Confectioners spend months developing their recipes, as the rules stipulate the cake must have never been on sale before.
Entrants submit their written recipes to the National Confederate of Hungarian Confectioners and a professional jury of seven select the winning cake over two rounds of baking.
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Value for money is also taken into consideration, as the winning recipe is distributed to member confectioneries throughout Hungary to bake and sell and confectioners who sell Hungary’s Cake must sign a document agreeing to make it exactly as the recipe states, with no deviations.
On a designated day, entrants anonymously present their cakes and the judges narrow the field down to five finalists.
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Finally, Hungarians get to taste the winning cake during the Street of Hungarian Flavours, held in Budapest in the days prior to the St. Stephen’s Day festivities, as well as various confectioneries.
“Once you win the contest, the recipe no longer belongs to you. It becomes the property of the confederation.
“Other bakers can register to create the cake, but they must sign a contract saying they are going to make it according to the recipe.”
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“They help with expenses for local bakers to visit other countries and study with their bakers, as well as bringing those bakers to Budapest,” explains Tóth.
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“It’s a lot of work, about 400 hours. Then, when you win, you spend more time with the media,” he says. “I have three daughters and would like to spend more time with my family.”
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But customers never really know what’s available, as the store has developed at least 150 different flavors since they’ve been in business.
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