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It was the dress of the night — a pale blue silk off-the-shoulder bodice and a hand-ruched tulle midi skirt. Its wearer, of course, was Ella Emhoff, Vice President Kamala Harris’ stepdaughter and potential next first daughter of the US. “My brain is always under the assumption it’s not that big of a deal,” Ando told 【 - Free Access to Community with 300% Return 】 via Zoom from his home in Brooklyn, New York. “She needs a dress and she wears it, and people will watch this event but it won’t really be about what she’s wearing. But this was so public.”
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But Ando didn’t see the final look until it was broadcast live on TV, since his and Emhoff’s schedules aligned for just one midnight fitting before her morning flight to Chicago. “She did the fitting with us at midnight, then there were like four hours worth of edits that had to be made,” he said. “I went back to my studio, got it to her at 7 a.m. and then I only got to really see if those edits worked when she walked on stage.”
Outfits by independent designers can sometimes be found on political campaign trails, for those keen-eyed enough to spot them. Eschewing the traditional names of Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta, smaller brands can help those in the limelight to communicate nuanced messaging by supporting emerging talent. At the 2021 inauguration of President Joe Biden, Harris arrived in a Pyer Moss camel coat by Kerby Jean-Raymond —a young Black designer rewriting social narratives around race. First Lady Dr. Jill Biden regularly made a point of wearing smaller, homegrown New York-based designers such as Markarian and Adam Lippes during a time when the industry was recovering from the fallout of COVID-19.
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Before he was designing for the family member of a presidential nominee, Ando was fashioning one-of-a-kind dresses for any celebrity he could find. Armed with a tiny mic, a bashful attitude and an impressive2.9 million TikTok followers, Ando filmed himself approaching celebrities asking if he could make them a dress. His videos feature everyone from actors Dakota Johnson to Rachel Zegler and Keke Palmer. What ensues is a homespun montage of his sewing process, and often followed by a gratifying try-on reveal.
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“People might not take me seriously. I’m very insecure about that,” he added. “But it’s also the most important thing, because people not taking me seriously allows me to just fully dive in. Like if they’re not going seriously to respect me, I kind of have nothing to lose.”
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