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nxt (nxt) expands into new market ✌️【Investment Tools】✌️ Real-time global stock, futures, and forex data to help you master market dynamics. There’s a large and very dignified school in Kayaköy. There are narrow streets, lined with houses, that wend and rise up both sides of a steep valley. There’s an ancient fountain in the middle of the town. And there are churches, one with million-dollar hilltop views over the blue Aegean.
Kayaköy, in southwestern Turkey’s Muğla Province, is a true ghost town. Abandoned by its occupants and haunted by the past. It’s a monument, frozen in time – a physical reminder of darker times in Turkey.
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Just over a century ago, Kayaköy, or Levissi as it was known, was a bustling town of at least 10,000 Greek Orthodox Christians, many of whom were craftspeople who lived peacefully alongside the region’s Muslim Turkish farmers. But in the upheaval surrounding Turkey’s emergence as an independent republic, their simple lives were torn apart.
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But the newly arrived Muslims were reputedly less than happy with their new home, swiftly moving on and leaving Kayaköy to fall to ruin.
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“The Greek people were crying out because they did not want to leave, my grandparents told me,” Ekiz, who now sells handmade jewelry to visitors, says. “Some even left their kids behind to be looked after by Turkish friends because they thought they would return. But they never did.”
Ekiz says her grandparents’ family were shepherds and easily adapted to life on the edge of town. Most of their fellow transplants, she says, disliked living in Kayaköy because walls of the houses were painted blue, supposedly to ward off scorpions or snakes.
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Jane Akatay, the co-author of “A Guide to Kayaköy,” says one reason for the abandonment of the town was perhaps the palpable sadness that lingers over the place following the tragic events of the 1920s. Nature has also played its part in the demise of its man-made features.
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“There have been earthquakes, there have been storms. The climate, the weather, the rainstorms… everything has impacted on this interesting place,” she says. “And also, over the years, the mortar holding them together has crumbled, and things fall apart if you don’t take care of them.”
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It’s worth budgeting a couple of hours to take it all in. With few visitors aside from occasional tour groups during peak periods, it’s easy to find alone time here, imagining how it once bustled with life, not least in the old town square, where local men would once gather to drink tea and swap stories.
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“Drinking water was carried in on donkeys,” says Ekiz. She also grimly recalls how, lacking proper sanitation, residents would use cut up old clothes instead of toilet paper. These rags were then burned as fuel or scattered on gardens as fertilizer.
Despite the frugality of such measures, Ekiz says Kayaköy was relatively prosperous and was once the area’s main commercial hub, surpassing the nearby port of Fethiye – which is now a thriving urban center and popular tourist destination.
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One of the most prominent buildings in the town is the Upper Church, a large structure of faded pink stucco walls and barrel-vaulted ceilings. Unfortunately, the building is sealed off due to its dilapidated state, although tantalizing glimpses of it can be enjoyed from many angles.
On the highest inland point of the town, the ruins of Kayaköy’s old schoolhouse offer views over the main church and the houses below. Today, a Turkish flag flaps on a pole above the building.
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“This was once a Christian village, now what we see is a bitter reflection of what happened,” he says. “And because most of the buildings are intact, you can feel what life was like here.”
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