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In February, a knitted capsule collection designed by Ella Emhoff –inauguration It-Girland now a fresh face in fashion – sold out on independent platform Mall NYCwithin an hour. This week, the step-daughter to Vice President Kamala Harris released aknitwear and crochet collaborationwith American designer and vintage enthusiast Batsheva Hay

Knitting’s cousin, crochet, a weaving technique that uses just one hooked needle, has similarly reached dizzying heights with more than 34 million searches on Instagram and a further 2 billion on TikTok. More than just generating a few how-to guides, the current appetite for crocheted pieces has spawned a flurry of small businesses like El’s Crochet, Vaisseau and Fancy Nancy (@els.crochet, @va1sseau and @fancynancy_crochet), selling their wares on Instagram and second-hand platform Depop.

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“Just a reminder that crochet can’t be done by a machine,” one 21-year-old student from Londonpostedon TikTok. “It has to be made by hand.”

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“The amount of hours that go into even small items and the fact (fast-fashion brands) are selling them at crazy low prices means the wage of the garment workers must be pennies,” she said over email. “With so many amazing small crocheter businesses,now you can get something completely customized to you while supporting a small artist, which is so much more worthwhile.”

But the tension between ethical manufacturers and large-scale retailers extends beyond newbie crochet artists on social media. The “craftcore” movement has come at a time when the entire fashion industry is being forced toconfront the true cost of overproduction, and customers at home are reevaluating their consumption habits. While eco-conscious clothing still has a long way to go – by 2023 it’s predicted to reach a global value of$8.25 billion, nearly $30 billion less than the expected worth of fast fashion – greener companies are catching up. And, in less than two years, it’s forecast that sustainable fashion will achieve a higher annual growth rate than its mass-market counterparts, signaling that perhaps slow and steady can win the race for a better fashion future.

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