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But President-elect Donald Trump’s musings about America taking over this island of 56,000 largely Inuit people, halfway between New York and Moscow, has seen Greenland shaken from its frozen Arctic anonymity.

Denmark, for whom Greenland is an autonomous crown dependency, has protested it’s not for sale. Officials in Greenland, meanwhile, have sought to assert the territory’s right to independence.

Had Trump Jr. stayed longer than for a photo-opportunity he would’ve discovered a ruggedly pristine wildernesses steeped in rich Indigenous culture.

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Located on the west coast, Ilulissat is a pretty halibut- and prawn-fishing port on a dark rock bay where visitors can sit in pubs sipping craft beers chill-filtered by 100,000-year-old glacial ice.

It’s a place to be awed by the UNESCO World Heritage Icefjord where Manhattan skyscraper-sized icebergs disgorge from Greenland’s icecap to float like ghostly ships in the surrounding Disko Bay.

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“I was on my boat once and saw one of these icebergs split in two. The pieces fell backwards into the sea and created a giant wave,” said David Karlsen, skipper of the pleasure-boat, Katak.“…I didn’t hang around.”

Disko Bay’s other giants are whales. From June to September breaching humpback whales join the likes of fin and minke whalesfeasting on plankton. Whale-watching is excellent all around Greenland’s craggy coastline.

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Ilulissat is also a hub for coastal sea cruises. Driving Greenland’s record 141,000 visitors in 2024 was a surge in cruise tourism. The west coast is especially popular with voyages, typically emanating from North America or Iceland.

From Ilulissat, cruise ships hug the coastline heading south, calling at pretty little communities of green, blue, yellow and purple painted houses, and Qeqertarsuaq (Disko) Island, where flat-topped mountains are capped by glaciers.

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“My parents hunt nearly all their food,” said Mette Barselajsen, who owns Ittoqqortoormiit’s only guesthouse. “They prefer the old ways, burying it in the ground to ferment and preserve it. Just one muskox can bring 440 pounds of meat.”

For getting around during winter, the Inuit here nowadays prefer snowmobiles, although they still keep their sled dogs. During winter they’ll offer intrepid visitors, wrapped up warm against the deep-freeze temperatures, dog-sledding jaunts. These can last either an hour or be part of expeditions over several days, sometimes with the added experience of learning how to build an igloo. Sisimiut on the west coast and Tasilaq in the southeast are active winter centers for dog sledding.

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Life is definitely changing here. The climate crisis is eating away at its icecap and Greenland may well end up as a pawn in a game of geopolitical chess. But for now, the bright glare of international attention should shine a favorable light on one of the wildest travel destinations on Earth.

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