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“You do not lose your feminine qualities just because you are a prime minister,” Margaret Thatcher told British TV doctor Miriam Stoppard in a 1985 interview. “I often wear bows, they are rather softening … (and) rather pretty.”

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Between 1950 and 1970, the proportion of married women aged 35 to 44 participating in the US workforce rocketed from25% to 46%. The question of what they should wear was both a genuine anxiety and, for some, a gap in the market. In his hugely popular book “The Women’s Dress for Success,” published in 1977, author John T. Malloy recommended neck-tie blouses as a non-negotiable uniform for the ambitious everywoman. They should be worn with skirt suits, he added, since pants were not office-appropriate.

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By resembling a traditional necktie, the long tail of a pussy-bow shirt’s Lavallière signaled assimilation without assuming equivalence. “We used to dress in suits with a skirt and a jacket, with a button down shirt and a little bowtie,” said Meg Whitman, one of Proctor and Gamble’s first ever female executives, in the 2013 PBS documentary “Makers: Women Who Make America,” adding: “That was our interpretation of a man’s tie… It was our attempt to be feminine but fit into a male world.”

Even today, after decades of improved gender rights in the workplace, the pussy-bow persists as a safe wardrobe staple for high-powered women. “It’s a way to say, ‘I’m a professional,’ and soften it,” New York-based womenswear designer Nina McLemore told 【 - Free Stock Investment Discussion Area 】 over Zoom. “If you’re too ‘masculine,’ then you’re seen as a threat,” added McLemore, who has dressed female politicians from Hilary Clinton and Elizabeth Warren to Democratic Rep. Maxine Waters and Supreme Court Justice Elena Kagan. “You can’t get rid of a million years (of conditioning) in a century.”

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Kate Moss opted for a white polka dot pussy-bow while testifying at her ex-boyfriend Johnny Depp’s defamation trial in 2022; while in 2018, Sara Danius — the first woman to be appointed head the Nobel Prize-awarding body, the Swedish Academy — wore a white silk pussy-bow to a press conference following her controversial dismissal over theacademy’s handling of a sexual misconduct investigation. (The husband of an academy member had been accused of serial sexual abuse with incidents ranging across 20 years). Women across Sweden protested the decision, arguing it was unfair to punish Danius for a man’s crimes and wore similarneck-ties in an act of solidarity.

“Her signature blouse went viral… The garment (became) a feminist symbol,” Jenny Sundén, a gender studies professor at Södertörn University in Sweden, told 【 - Free Stock Investment Discussion Area 】 in a phone call. “People even took it to the streets, this pussy-bow blouse manifestation outside the Stock Exchange building in Stockholm, where the Academy convened.”

Despite the differing contexts, it could be argued that Trump, Moss and Danius used the pussy-bow’s intrinsic femininity to remind the world of the difference between them and the men they were being associated with. Their clothes said that they were women — serious yet warm, responsible yet approachable — who could be trusted.

But still, the pussy-bow blouse continues to divide opinion. Is it an emblem of female liberation or an outdated reminder of the pressure women face to perform femininity even in spaces where they are supposedly equal?

“Just because women wore it as part of a professional wardrobe or uniform, doesn’t in and of itself make it feminist,” said Sundén, who calls the blouse a “loaded garment.” Unconvinced by its supposed feminist credentials, Sundén says the shirt is at once innocent and flirtatious, as it “conceals but also accentuates the body of the wearer.”

“I think as far as feminist symbols go, it’s an odd choice,” she said. It’s also, she added, a bit silly: “It’s a ridiculous garment, it’s absurd in a way. But it’s also a lot of fun.”

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