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Unlike Taiwan’s ubiquitousbubble tea, mixiang tea is still highly limited and largely off-the-radar. But what was once a hidden gem among serious tea lovers is now starting to gain international attention.

Food scientists Natalie Chiu and Charlie Winkworth-Smith are the founders ofSaicho— a British-Hong Kong sparkling tea brand — and huge fans of Taiwan’s mixiang teas.

In 2019, the husband-and-wife duo launched the company to offer diners an alternative to wine. Their sparkling teas, which have three standard flavors and a “Rare Tea Collection” line, have since become a popular offering at many hotels and restaurants, amassing a cult following around the world.

“We met tea master Junjie Lin in the UK at a ceremony called the Great Taste Awards in 2023, often referred to as the Oscars of food,” says Winkworth-Smith.

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“From just the first sip, I knew it was special. On the nose, you get that beautiful dark honey aroma and fruitiness like apricot,” Winkworth-Smith explains. “On the palate, you first taste ripe mango and grilled pineapple, but then there are notes of cedar wood and smokiness that add so much complexity and depth.”

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“We’re very particular about the types of tea we want to showcase in our Rare Tea Collection. It has taken us three years to find this honey-fragrance black tea,” adds Chiu.

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“The response has been fantastic,” says Winkworth-Smith. “In the United Kingdom, we launched exclusively with Harrods for retail, and they’re also stocked in four Michelin-starred restaurants in London. We couldn’t do more than that due to our limited quantities.

“With its sweetness, savoriness and acidity, it’s quite versatile. It pairs well with dishes, from honey-roast pork to crème brûlée.”

Clint Liang, a Taipei-based tour guide fromTopology Travel— a bespoke tour agency specializing in organizing private in-depth tours — tells 【 - Free Stock Market Expert Consultation 】 Travel that mixiang tea is still in its infancy when it comes to market awareness.

“Tea has been an important industry in Taiwan for about 400 years, when tea plants and tea-processing skills were brought over from Fujian (a tea-producing Chinese province). However, the commercialization of tea only happened a few decades ago. The development of mixiang tea as a product is even younger,” says Liang.

For generations, tea master Lee’s family primarily produced regular Dong Ding Oolong tea — one of Taiwan’s most famous teas, which requires high oxidation and roasting skills — on the high mountains of Lugu, Nantou.

“Just a few decades ago, the jassids were considered pests — they still are on many farms,” he notes.

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Over the last two decades, more people have been introduced to them, and other mixiang teas have since been developed. Lee says his Gui Fei tea is so popular it often sells out before it can even hit the retail market.

Oriental Beauty is one of Taiwan’s most recognized mixiang teas and has become a hot commodity in auction markets in the last decade.

In the latest Tokyo Chuo Auction in Taipei, three 75-gram cans of Oriental Beauty fetched a record-high price of NTD416,880 ($12,820).

“With the element of surprise from the tea jassids, Oriental Beauty boasts myriad variations — some are as elegant as flowers and honey while others are as rich as wood and ripe fruits. It’s a beauty just like its name,” saysArial Chiang, a young tea maker who has been learning to produce Oriental Beauty tea in Hsinchu, in northern Taiwan, since 2020.

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“The quality of mixiang tea, like Oriental Beauty, for example, depends heavily on how much it has been bitten by tea jassids,” says Chiang. “The degree oftiohian(salivation) affects how the tea will be crafted in the next stages — it tests the experience and skill of the tea master.”

If the tea leaves aren’t oxidated and roasted just right, the honey flavor will dissipate and the tea will become bitter and musty, adds tea master Lee.

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“Another major deterrent is that since the tea leaves and trees have been nibbled on, they sustain a certain level of damage,” says Kuo Huan-ling, tea master Lee’s wife, who also happens to be a rare tea scholar.

“The tea leaves will slow down its growth and the plants need almost a year to recover. If a farm has hosted jassids, the production of tea leaves can drop to as little as 20% of its original harvest. Therefore, not many farmers are willing to sacrifice the quantity of the harvest and cultivate Gui Fei tea.”

But these challenges don’t stop those who have already fallen in love with honey-flavored tea, and that includes Kuo.

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“The beauty of mixiang teas, like Oriental Beauty and Gui Fei, is how we have turned a disadvantage into an advantage,” says Kuo.

For those who want to learn more about mixiang tea while traveling in Taiwan, it’s now grown in various regions on the island.

Lee’s teahouse, called Lee Te, is in Lugu, Nantou (72 Luzhang Road, Lugu, Nantou County). They also run a tea shop in Taipei calledThe Red Top Tea Gallery(166 Dunhua North Road, Songshan District, Taipei).

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“Hsinchu in the northwestern part of Taiwan is famous for its Oriental Beauty,” says tour guide Liang. “Hualien (on the east), Nantou (in the central region) and Alishan (the mountainous indigenous township in southwestern Taiwan) are all excellent places to check out tea gardens and sample tea.”

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“We don’t always receive requests to create an itinerary specifically for tea, but about 80% of my tour groups involve tea sampling as part of their experience. That’s how important tea is to Taiwan’s culture,” Liang adds.

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