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“Focusing on ice and ice cream, the restaurant skillfully layers flavors and textures through temperature variations and creative combinations, using unique local ingredients from Taiwan,” says the Michelin Guide’s write-up of Minimal.

“The meticulous flavors, delicacy and mature, skilful techniques all impressed us and reached a higher level, warranting a Michelin star.”

“My family had a double-door refrigerator with an installed ice-maker. I’d eat ice cubes every day,” he recalls.

Fascinated by the thrilling sensation of an ice cube hitting his tongue, the slight sweetness of the filtered water revealing itself as it melted, young Wan began to experiment by putting different foods into the freezer.

“After graduating from culinary school, I worked as a chef when my mother was battling cancer. The two shifts in the kitchen meant very long working hours. Every morning, I could see my mother for a short while before heading to work, and she was already asleep by the time I got home.

“Before her passing, I didn’t spend much time with her. (After that) I reflected a lot — if I continued on my current path, I wouldn’t have time for people I cherish in the future.”

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It was a short experience. In 2016, Wan accepted his friends’ invitation to co-foundSur-, a contemporary Taiwanese restaurant in Taichung that earned its first Michelin star in 2021.

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“Desserts often aren’t the most important part of a meal in a restaurant,” he says. “They’re more like a finish, a supporting act.

“I really only love ice. I don’t feel the same way about other desserts. So I just wanted to make ice but that isn’t possible from a restaurant’s perspective — you can’t just serve ice as dessert all year.”

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“Minimalist design may look very simple, but it’s extremely complex if you understand it,” says Wan.

“Similar to ice cream, it goes through a very complex calculation and planning process to obtain such a state and taste.”

On the ground floor is a takeaway ice cream shop offering six whimsical flavors that are continuously updated. Recent options include biluochun (a type of green tea) with sugarcane and an herb called Angelica morii, as well as pine needles with Camellia seed oil and green Taiwanese herbs.

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Each dish is named after the temperature it’s served at, and the current menu begins with a half-molten starter, the 0°C Loquat/Pear (32 Fahrenheit). Then, diners will have the only hot course in the meal — a rice dumpling sandwiched between two crispy pancakes, titled 180°C Rice/Edamame.

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Creating these unique dishes and running an ice cream-themed “restaurant” takes lots of planning and experimenting. There’s far more to it than just churning ingredients in a Pacojet ice cream maker.

“Most people are less familiar with temperatures below zero and think they’re all the same. I hope to find a way to understand the differences,” says Wan.

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“I had to make the mixture a little bit thicker so that it could coagulate the air bubbles,” he says. “Then, at the same time, I had to create a valve, so that gas can enter the liquid and not exit before it is frozen.”

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“To overcome that, I have to complement it with some other ingredients to create a more complex nose and taste that reminds you of the theme of the dessert.”

For example, he adds mint and Angelica morii to his biluochun green tea ice cream, hoping that the extra layers of grassy tastes will offset the decrease in green tea flavor.

“I still eat ice cream almost every day. Most of the time, I eat really cheap ice treats like qing bing (a retro dessert made of water and banana flavoring served as shaved ice or in popsicle form). They’re a no-brainer for me,” says Wan.

Growing up, the Minimal founder says his mother encouraged him to follow his passions instead of focusing on monetary success, and he hopes to help others find their happiness through his dishes.

“When we were young, most of us loved eating iced desserts. As we grow older, the prospect of eating ice is much less exhilarating – the ice itself hasn’t changed, but the feeling towards it has changed — it’s no longer new and special,” he says.

“I hope that with Minimal, grown-ups can rediscover the joy of eating ice again – as if it was their first ice cream experience.”

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