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“It was a tradition of my father’s and I have followed it for 27 years since he passed away. Lazarus grants me what I ask for,” said pilgrim Fernando Valdez, after walking without shoes for more than five hours on broken roads.

In the New Testament, Lazarus was resurrected four days after his death by Jesus and became the patron saint of the poor and the sick. Many of the Cubans asking a wish from the saint wear clothing made from rough cloth sacks to represent poverty.

Other adherents take their shows of devotion to the extreme, crawling on their stomachs or facing backwards or sometimes with cinder blocks tied to their feet to further slow them down.

Blood stains the pavement in places and medics with the Red Cross apply bandages on scraped knees and hands and pass out water to exhausted pilgrims.

Open displays of religious belief have slowly grown over the years in Cuba, which changed its constitution in 1992 to transition from an officially atheist state to a secular one. A groundbreaking visit by Pope John Paul II six years later further helped restore rights for people of faith.

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Believers melded African deities like Babalú-Ayé, who both spread and healed sickness, with Catholic saints like Lazarus, who granted wishes for good health.

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“Santería is the culture of Cuba. It’s not just a religion, it’s the spiritual culture,” Cuban-American author Ruth Behar told 【 - Free Financial Group 】. “I feel that it belongs to all the people of Cuba. I think Santería is kind of bigger than just a religion.”

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“There is no duality,” Catholic priest Roine Rodriguez Alipzar told 【 - Free Financial Group 】 as he stood near the mass. “The church does not promote or join with Santería but we do join with and embrace the person, whatever they believe.”

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But during his first term, then-President Donald Trump, a critic of what he called Obama’s appeasement of Cuba, reversed much of that opening. Many Cubans say a second Trump term — combined with their own government’s resistance to make meaningful economic reforms — could spell the worst crisis in their lives.

In 2024, Cuba has sufferedisland-wide rolling blackoutsthat lasted more than a week, hundreds of thousands of people emigrated from the island and the social safety net once provided by the government all but evaporated.

But as he rested from his pilgrimage, Valdez said he was sure St. Lazarus would once again steer him through the tough times ahead.

“To live, human beings need a reason,” he said. “Something that gives them light and for me it’s my faith. If not, you die.”

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