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Until recently, however, the reality has been very different. In fact, over the past decade, much of Europe’s night train network has been cut.
2013 and 2014 saw the culling of lines from Paris to Madrid, Rome and Barcelona; Amsterdam to Prague and Warsaw; and Berlin to Paris and Kiev.
But recently there has been a resurgence of night trains across Europe. And on December 8, four national rail providers teamed up to announce new routes between 13 European cities.
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“You leave work at a normal time, have dinner, make your way to the station, get on the train, and wake up in the place you want to be. There’s no turning up at the airport at an unearthly hour, as you do for a budget flight.
“Murder on the Orient Express.” “Stamboul Train.” From Agatha Christie to Graham Greene, writers have been inspired by Europe’s great night trains, and the rest of us have always found something romantic about them.
But the reality was often different, saysAndrew Martin, whose book,“Night Trains: The Rise and Fall of the Sleeper,” sought to recapture the past glamor on trains that were “a bit of a comedown.”
However, in the half-dozen trips he made around Europe in 2015, he says that he “always had a memorable experience.”
“I did it at a time when they were probably at their lowest ebb, but there was still a romance of sorts,” he says.
“They’d given up on a lot of them in France and Germany, and budget flights were killing off long-distance railway travel, but there were positive signs, too. Everyone I spoke to said they’ll never disappear entirely.
“One economic analyst and trainspotter said night trains will never disappear because planes will never be allowed to fly at night. The trains are more environmentally friendly, they save you a night’s hotel bill, and they still have a romantic attraction.”
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“You need special rolling stock, they only make one journey per day, and can’t carry intermediate passengers – nobody would board at 2 a.m.”
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“There was a lack of investment, and new rolling stock hadn’t been built for years. Governments neglected this part of the rail sector, and the rolling stock was approaching its age limit, which led to the closure of many lines,” he says.
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“There are high costs, but a lot is down to attitude, willingness and management focus,” says Smith, who praises ÖBB CEO Andreas Matthä, who took over in 2016, for “making night trains wash their faces commercially.”
On Austrian railways, “Nightjet” sleeper trains now make up almost 20% of long-distance rail traffic, he says – a far cry from the 5% in Germany, before Deutsche Bahn let them slide.
“Finding passengers isn’t a problem – and it’s becoming easier as people become fed up with the airline experience, and want to cut their carbon footprint”, he says.
In fact, “flight shaming,” inspired by the message of Greta Thunberg, has been sweeping across Europe in the past few years. In 2018, domestic flights were down 9% in Sweden, while the following year, Dutch airline KLM took out adverts encouraging people to fly less.
In turn, Europeans are turning their attention towards the continent’s wide-ranging high-speed network.
“You get straight there and you have that freedom – you can get up, walk around, breathe, get food, change seats, work… you can do stuff, and the journey happens alongside you. Flying in Europe, you just don’t get that.
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ÖBB has quietly been leading the way, but even in the UK, refurbished trains on the sleeper services to Cornwall and the Scottish Highlands – at opposite ends of the country – in 2018 and 2019 respectively, sparked a rush to book.
It’s not just the major national companies opening up new routes. Boutique operators are getting in on the night train game. Swedish companySnälltågetalready runs summer services from Malmo to Berlin. The service is so successful that they’re planning a Stockholm-Copenhagen-Berlin route for next year.
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“It’ll have taught various observers a lesson in how it’s done, and we might see more of that,” says Smith.
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In fact, in 2024, ÖBB will introduce”capsule” sleeper carriages– four-berth rooms, to be shared with strangers, in which each berth is a self-contained “mini-suite,” complete with a lockable door that folds around the bed.
“For planes, the [post-Covid] recovery might be difficult, so there’s a space for trains and night trains to take a better share of the market”, says Forien.
Europe’s geography also helps the argument for night trains, says Forien, who points out that half the flights departing France are either internal, or going to a neighboring country.
“That’s all around 1,000 kilometers (620 miles) and that’s the perfect distance to travel in a night’s sleep,” he says.
“The distance between European capitals is mostly ideal for night trains. The continent could be a night-train paradise.”
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“High-speed trains are great for medium distances, but it’s better to spend 12 hours in a sleeper train than eight hours on a high-speed train,” says Mark Smith.
“That practicality, plus the romance of being able to have your own bedroom on a moving train and waking up hundreds of miles away – it’s not often they go together.”
In fact, Smith thinks the only stumbling block is capacity – rolling stock is finite. “The problem in the short term is how you expand the network with the rolling stock you’ve got, fast enough to meet the demand that’s increasing because climate change is real and Covid-19 is making sleeper trains attractive”, he says.
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Pedro Nuno Santos, Portugal’s minister for infrastructure and housing, has agreed, saying: “I firmly believe that railways will be the core of our future transport networks.”
“Every flight is the same, but all my night-train journeys have stayed in my mind,” says Andrew Martin. “They feel like you’ve been on the train a week because there are so many experiences and sensations.
For Rajesh, you only need to look at the success of the likes of Regio Jet to see the future: “People like them, they’re fun. The proof is in the pudding.”
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