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“You are in room nine, it’s one of our binational rooms,” the hotel manager confirmed with a smile, handing over an old-school metal key.

I could hardly contain my delight. If the prospect of showing up at a hotel not knowing which country I would be sleeping in that night was already thrilling, what about sleeping in two countries at the same time?

It had been a long drive through winding roads to get to La Cure, a tiny hamlet nested atop the thickly forested Jura mountains, which separate France and Switzerland.

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Built in the rustic style that is so prevalent in this part of Europe, the small family-run hotelHotel Arbez Franco-Suisse– also called L’Arbézie — has the peculiarity of sitting right on top of an international border.

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I had been assigned one of those binational rooms, with the invisible international divide running right through the bathroom and the bed. It means guests sleep with their head in Switzerland and legs in France.

Visible from the window, and just a few yards away, were the two border posts, the Swiss one on the right side, the French one a bit further down on the left, with the hotel occupying a triangular plot of land wedged between the two.

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“Mirrors and windows are meant to be not just as a decorative element, but also as a symbol of connection between adjacent worlds and realities,” says Alexandre Peyron, manager of the hotel that has been run by his family for generations, on a tour of one of the suites. In this case, while the entirety of the room was in Switzerland, the wall was totally French.

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It’s easier when it comes to paying the bill, since both euros and Swiss Francs are accepted. Likewise, the hotel has two phone numbers, one for each country, and rooms are fitted with two types of electricity socket, since France and Switzerland use different standards. Taxes are paid to both countries, according to a specific pro-rata formula, in agreement with the tax authorities of both countries.

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In a situation reminiscent of the classic 1980s British TV comedy series “‘Allo, ‘Allo,” on occasions when the Germans were distracted, eating or drinking at the bar, the hotel owners managed to sneak the fugitives under their noses into the safety of neutral Switzerland.

Owner Max Arbez was recognized as Righteous Among the Nations by the Yad Vashem Memorial in Jerusalem for his role in saving Jewish refugees. A letter of gratitude from Allied commander Marshall Montgomery is today also proudly displayed next to that “staircase of freedom.”

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Fearing capture, the Algerian negotiators didn’t want to set foot on French soil, while the French authorities wished to conduct the talks discreetly within their borders. A private room at the hotel offered the ideal solution.

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Like the rest of the tourism industry, the hotel was heavily impacted, although it managed to remain open for some time, in order to provide accommodation for sanitary personnel.

Its managers, however, had to deal also with the complexity of two different and constantly evolving sets of restrictions, usually opting to implement the stricter of both, which, more often than not, tended to be those on the French side.

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Peyron keeps sharing these while showing off his hotel and passing through a narrow open courtyard that serves as a conduit between its French and Swiss sides of the building. There sits one of the oldest and most tangible manifestations of this border: a stone marker from 1863.

On one side stands the eagle of the second French Empire (France was at the time ruled by Napoleon III), “Vaud”, is simply written on the other side.

“The State of Vaud is one of the constituent parts of the Swiss Confederation, but let’s not forget that, on the other side of this marker there is also a confederation of sorts, the European Union,” says Peyron.

Lots to ponder as I head to my room to enjoy an international sleep. Just in case, and before turning the key of the door, I checked my pocket once more, to make sure I’ve brought my passport with me.

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